Dear Kim:

It's not uncommon to find raisins in Fish a la Veracruzana, though pinenuts are not an ingredient I've seen in that dish. They'd be good, though, I'm sure.

When I make Fish a la Veracruzana with raisins, I usually add a little cinnamon to the sauce to work with the sweetness that the raisins add.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Steve:
I have a FiveStar range and I love it. It's a professional range for the home cook, with great power in the burners, all kinds of easy-on-the-cook touches (gentle burners for simmering, oven doors that come off for easy cleaning, a gas oven for roasting and an electric oven for baking). You can check out all the FiveStar offerings at www.fivestarrange.com


Sincerely,
Rick

Hello Guillermo,
The market from 12-3pm is $40 in advance, $45 day of...$15 for children uner 12. This includes 12 food stations, a Frontera Market Margarita (created just for this day) Wines at our wine tasting bar, demonstrations by me in our test kitchen, tequila tastings--there is a lot going on, and live music to boot!

The dinner is $125 per person, and it includes a never before seen 6 course menu featuring early summer produce, meat and fish from local farms and producers. All expertly matched with wine by our sommelier Jill Gubesch.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Gary:

That is one of my favorite cakes, made especially attractive because you can change the fruit to whatever's in season. It's from my last book, Mexican Everyday.

The cake batter is essentially a muffin mix (which means it's not so rich, but needs to be eaten pretty soon after it's baked). You start by melting 2 tablespoons butter in a 10-inch pan, waiting until it begins to brown, then pouring it into a bowl. In the skillet, sprinkle in 1/2 cup brown sugar, then spread about 3 cups of cubed fruit (anything from pineapple to mango, apple, pear, nectarines, peaches, berries--or a combination) over that. In a big bowl, whisk together, 3/4 cup flour, 3/4 cup whole wheat flour (or additional white), 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon baking soda and 1 teaspoon baking powder. Into the butter whisk 3/4 cup sugar, 1 egg and 3/4 cup buttermilk or plain yogurt. Stir the two mixtures together, pour over the fruit and bake at 375 degrees until springy in the center--about 35 minutes. Cool 10 minutes, then flip onto a plate and lift off the skillet.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Lily:

Sopa de fideos is a classic pasta soup (which I'm sure you already know) that most kids are reared on in Mexico. In the book I did with my daughter (Rick and Lanie's Excellent Kitchen Adventures), we included a recipe in the chapter on Mexico. You start by browning dry vermicelli pasta (I like to spray it with oil and bake it at 350 degrees for about 15 minutes, turning it once). If you start with a 10-ounce package of vermicelli (fideos in Spanish), you can simply blend a 15-ounce can of tomatoes, 1/2 a small onion, a couple of cloves of garlic to flavor the base. Heat a little film of oil in a big saucepan, add the blended tomato mixture, cook it down until thick, then add a couple of quarts of chicken broth. I like to simmer it with a couple of serrrano chiles cut in half and a handful of parsley (or a little mint or epazote). After the soup base has simmered for half an hour, add the toasted vermicelli and cook until it is tender (about 10 minutes). Season with salt and the soup is ready to eat.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Mary:

The chicken was either coated in a red chile marinade or with achiote (though achiote isn't used in much in that part of Mexico; it's traditional in Yucatan). Though the cooks in that part of Mexico usually start with chile pods (ancho and/or guajillo), you can make a good marinade by sauteing 4 cloves of crushed garlic in a little oil, then adding 1/3 cup ground ancho powder (the pure stuff, not what's sold as 'chili powder'), 2 tablespoons vinegar, 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1/2 teaspoon sugar, 3/4 teaspoon salt and 3/4 cup water. Whisk until it comes to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Cool and use to marinate chicken before you grill it.

The tacos al pastor we all love to eat in Mexico are nearly impossible to make at home. That spit, which provides the perfect slow-cooking for the pork, holds 30 or 40 pounds of meat ... a little too much for most of us to deal with. You can use the marinade I described above to season thin-sliced pork (I like thin-cut pork shoulder steak that's been pounded with a mallet), grill it along with some sliced onion and pineapple, chop everything up and serve it in warm tortillas. It will be good, but not the same as those fabulous tacos al pastor.



Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Brian:

Your letter made me really happy. So many magazines and cookbooks are filled with recipes that don't really capture the true flavors of Mexico. I think those flavors sing strong and clear. And when you taste them, you really do know they're the real deal. I'm glad your Mexican friends applauded your success in the kitchen.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Charlie:

I'm a little unclear about what you tasted, because most of the tequilas aren't smoky ... certainly not as smoky as the mezcales from Oaxaca that we have on our list. And we do make a mezcal margarita. So I'm guessing that's what you tasted: a combination of Del Maguey mezcal, fresh lime juice, Pechaud bitters and Mexican brandy. It's my favorite margarita we make.

Del Maguey mezcal is Single Village Mezcal, meaning that each of their bottlings features the mezcal from one single village in Oaxaca--celebrating that village's special geography, water and agave characteristics. (Agave is the plant from which mezcal and tequila are distilled; there are hundreds of varieties.)

Ron Cooper, the owner of Del Maguey, is passionate about Oaxacan mezcal and has been slaving away at this project for years. We love being able to feature these artisinal products in our restaurant.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Jennifer:

Carnitas are a lot like rustic country bread--better left to those with the experience and equipment to make them. Typically, the best carnitas are made in huge copper pots that hold 40 or 50 gallons of fresh rendered pork lard and a whole pig that has been cut into its primal parts. The sheer quantity allows the cooking to go slow and careful ... meaning that after two or three hours the big pieces of pork are juicy-tender and mouthwateringly deep-golden on the outside. Some carnitas makers marinate the pieces of pork with a rub of salt (and, sometimes, lime juice). Others add milk or Coca Cola or orange juice to the lard during the cooking. Still others throw in aromatic herbs or spices while the pork bubbling around in the big copper cazo.

If you have a turkey frier, you can use it to make carnitas. Don't use oil; use lard, but not the hydrogenated variety they sell in most grocery stores. Find fresh-rendered lard at a Mexican or German butcher. (Most Mexican grocery stores sell carnitas in their meat department and often sell the carnitas-making lard, too.) Use enough lard to cover the meat. My suggestion is that you start with a bone-in Boston butt (shoulder) of pork, and maybe a picnic ham or two. I'd stay away from the loin, since it typically turns out drier than the rest of the cuts. (If you can find pork with the skin still on it, you'll have some crispy-chewy bits that, my guess is, will please your husband.) I like to rub the pieces of meat with salt and lime juice, let it stand for a couple of hours, then heat up the lard and add the meat. Keep a thermometer in the oil and keep it between 212 and 220 degrees. When the meat feels tender all the way to the bone, raise the temperature so that the oil reaches 300 degrees or a little above. Cook until the meat begins to brown, then remove it.

For a simple home version that doesn't require buying fresh-rendered pork lard, look at the carnitas recipe in my first book, Authentic Mexican, page 252.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Alberto:

I'm really glad you liked the mezcal margarita. If I had to pick just one of the half-dozen margaritas we're making right now, it would be the mezcal version. I love that smokiness and how it balances beautifully again the dash of brandy and Peychaud bitters (which give the drink that rosy hue). I think one could safely say that the best line of mezcales on the market are the single village mezcales done by Ron Cooper. They're all from Oaxaca (which has just been granted a "demonination of origin" regulation from the Mexican government--meaning it will be controlled and labeled like tequila). Though most of his village mezcales are made from the agave called espadin, each has a unique flavor due to differences in soil, water, elevation and distilling practices. He bottles them under the name Del Maguey ... and he bottles them at still strength (usually about 93 proof), so watch out when you're sipping them. Another reliable brand available in the United States is Don Amado, but I wouldn't really recommend the worm-y Monte Alban or other mass produced stuff. And as for getting mezcal in your home town ... I say we lobby for liquor control reform in your state. Until then, come visit us in Chicago and go on a buying spree at Sams Liquors.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Bea:

Roadside Chicken is what I call those wonderful chickens they cook along the roadside from Jalisco up to the border. It's a regional specialty, usually called "pollo a las brasas" there.

My standard Mexican rice starts off by blending a 15-ounce can of tomatoes (I like the Muir Glen roasted tomatoes best) with 1/2 small onion and 2 cloves of garlic. In a small saucepan, I heat up 1 3/4 cups chicken broth just until it steams. While the broth is heating, I heat 1 1/2 tablespoons oil or lard in a 3-quart saucepan with a tight-fitting lid; when hot, I add 1 1/2 cups rice and cook over medium heat, stirring, until the rice turns milky-looking and begin to brown. Then I add the tomato mixture and cook for a couple of minutes, stirring. Then I stir in the broth, cover and cook over low for 15 to 20 minutes, until the grains are cooked through. If the rice isn't going to be served right away, I suggest scooping it out of the pot onto a baking sheet and letting it cool completely; reheat it in a steamer. I like to mix cooked carrots and peas into this rice.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Susan:

Mexican food offers a very wide repertoire to choose from. If you go for just the dishes that are fried and covered with melted cheese, well, yes, they're going to be what I'd call "special occasion dishes"--not something for everyday consumption. But if you're going to make wonderful chicken enchiladas with tomatillo or red chile sauce--maybe you put just a sprinkling of anejo (Cotija-style) cheese on the top--you'll have a dish that's very nutritionally balanced. Don't be duped by the "low fat, low carb" folks; their work is being discredited with every day that passes. I say: learn what dishes are rich and enjoy them on special occasions or on the weekends; during the week, eat simply (lots of fruits and vegetables and lean meats--few desserts). And keep yourself really active (there's nothing worse on the human body than driving everywhere and sitting in front of the television). My latest book, Mexican Everyday, is filled with recipes that are not only nutritionally balanced, but are Mexican through and through--not to mention that they can be prepared in about a half an hour. Good luck!


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Klowe:

Tortillas take practice. With that said, here are my suggestions. Mix up the dough with hot water and let it stand 20 minutes or so. Then work in more warm water to the point that the dough can be formed into a ball, but just barely (it will be a tiny bit tacky on your palms). Heat a large griddle or two skillets so that you have one hot surface (I usually have it over medium-high to high) and one not-so-hot (usually between medium and medium-low). Lay the tortilla on the not-so-hot side and within 30 to 45 seconds (this is very important), flip the tortilla; you'll know it's ready because the tortilla will release itself from the griddle and be easy to flip. Flip it onto the hot side and let it brown underneath (usually about 30 seconds), then flip it again and brown the other side (no more than 30 seconds). It sounds to me like you may be cooking your tortillas too long. The cooking on the first side is the one that can most easily dry out the tortilla.


Sincerely,
Rick

Dear Priscilla:

All of the hotels do special meals with great entertainment, but that's not exactly my style. Though I'm not typically in Oaxaca for New Years Eve (I'm always in my restaurant in Chicago--with our "best dishes of the year" menu and my favorite mariachis), I'd probably go to Asador Vasco on the second story overlooking the zocalo. You'll have the wonderful open-air dining room, have the opportunity to peer down on the crowd below (you'll be at eye level with all the colorful strings of lights that swoop through the zocalo) and you'll be able to hear both the restaurant's entertainment as well as the roving mariachis and the marimbas below. It's a nice atmosphere, but casual enough for your kids. They will likely have a fixed-price menu, but if you have the opportunity to order a la carte, I really like their garlic soup, their watercress salad and some of their Basque-sounding entrees (the place is run by decendents of Basque immigrants, though they have some good Oaxacan food, as well).


Sincerely,
Rick

Oh Susannah!

Sharing a mole recipe in a blog like this is like trying to get Shaquil O'Neil's foot in Cinderella's slipper. We're redesigning our web site so that we'll be able to more frequently and easily post recipes. So, hang on for a little while and we'll have a mole recipe for you. For immediate gratification, I can suggest the classic red mole recipe in Mexico--One Plate at a Time (page 206). It's the most straightforward mole recipe I've written--very do-able for a complex sauce and very rewarding.


Sincerely,
Rick