Though I’d eaten hundreds of bolillos through the years, none had really caught my attention until I was shopping through the market in Uruapan, Michoacan, getting everything I needed for a cooking class the following day, and my nose led me to a simple set up an aisle away. The fellow behind the flat, woven-reed basket, in scruffy clothes dusted with flour, had a pile of golden, crusty, intensely aromatic bolillos, still warm from the oven. I bought one, tore off a bite and continued walking. About three chews in, I stopped. This was the most richly flavored, wonderfully chewy bolillo I’d ever encountered–something like a sour-dough demi-baguette from a fancy bakery. It was crusty, without simply shattering as many commercially made bolillos are, and the crumb offered tanginess and a little heft, nothing like the flavorless, cottony insides of so many of these ubiquitous Mexican rolls. That’s when I fell in love with bolillos. That’s what led me to open Xoco–and later, the collection of restaurants known as Tortazo–that celebrate Mexican tortas.
If you have any bread-baking experience, you’ll understand the method right away. I encourage you to let the dough rise overnight–just as the Uruapan baker explained to me he had–to develop a rich flavor (with the addition of a little sourdough starter, it’s even better). And, for the best volume, bake in a humid environment: that baker’s oven was made of moisture-holding earth and heated by wood; we suggest America’s Test Kitchen approach of spraying the bolillos with water and covering them with an upside-down aluminum roasting pan to trap moisture during the first few minutes in the oven.
Note on baking straight through (rather than refrigerating the dough overnight):
After the dough has been kneaded, cover with plastic wrap and let rise in a warm place until nearly double in bulk, about an hour. Next, one section at a time, pull the edges of the dough up and fold it into the center of the bowl, then turn the bowl and repeat until you’ve gone all the way around. Flip the dough over. Cover and let rest in a warm spot for about 45 more minutes, then proceed to shaping the rolls.
Note on using bread flour: Though bolillos made with all-purpose flour are perfectly delicious, ones made with the higher protein bread flour will have even better texture. To use bread flour, you’ll have to increase the water content (increase the hydration of your dough): use 336 grams (a little less than 1 ½ cups) lukewarm water instead of the 302 grams called for in the recipe below. You might notice the dough comes together in the mixer more quickly with bread flour, so check its elasticity after 5 minutes of kneading with the dough hook.
Note on using sourdough starter: Using a combination of commercial yeast and a sourdough starter produces the most developed flavor. If using an active sourdough starter, your quantities will change to:
1 teaspoon instant yeast (4 grams)
1 cup + 1 tablespoon (264 grams) lukewarm water (if using bread flour, use 1 ⅓ cup [300 grams] lukewarm water)
2 ¾ cups (382 grams) all-purpose or bread flour
½ cup sourdough starter (75 grams) - ours is 100% hydration
INGREDIENTS
- 2 1/4 teaspoons (1 packet, 7 grams) instant or active dry yeast
- 1 1/3 cup lukewarm water
- 3 cups (420 grams) all-purpose flour (I like King Arthur or Ceresota, something with a protein content of about 11.5%)
- A little vegetable oil for oiling the bowl
- 2 teaspoons x (6 grams) salt
INSTRUCTIONS
Make the dough and let it rise. In the bowl of a stand mixer, stir together the yeast and lukewarm water. (To ensure that your yeast is lively, you may want to let the mixture stand for a few minutes, until it is clearly bubbly.) Measure the flour and salt into the mixer bowl. Using a dough hook, mix on low speed until the ingredients are mostly combined, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn the mixer up to medium and knead until the dough is smooth and elastic and pulls away from the sides of the bowl, 6 to 8 minutes. Lightly oil a medium bowl and scrape the dough into it, turning it over to coat the dough all over. Cover and refrigerate the dough overnight (or up to 24 hours) to slowly rise, developing the best flavor.
Shape the rolls, part 1. Remove the dough from the refrigerator and warm to room temperature on the countertop–this will take a couple of hours. Evenly flour your work surface and scoop the dough on top. Gently pat the dough to deflate and shape it into a rough rectangle. Divide the dough into 4 equal pieces. Gently press each piece into a slightly larger rectangle, then fold up the shorter (right and left) sides of the rectangle to meet in the middle, sealing the two sides together with your fingertips. Next, create a cylinder shape: Fold the top edge of the square ⅔ of the way down and press to seal, then fold the new top edge all the way to the bottom and press to seal. Repeat to preshape the remaining rolls. Let rest, covered with a towel, for about 15 minutes.
Shape the rolls, part 2–and proof them. Pat the dough gently to deflate. On your lightly floured work surface, place a piece of dough in front of you, seam-side up, short sides on left and right. Use the side of your hand to make a horizontal depression along the length of the cylinder. Then, fold the top long edge of the dough down to meet the bottom. Using the heel of your hand or your fingertips, seal the dough. Repeat the same process, sealing the dough securely. Using both palms, roll the dough back and forth, pressing more on the pinky finger sides to taper the ends. This will help to create some surface tension so your bolillo rises high instead of flattening out. Repeat the final shaping process on the 3 remaining pieces of dough. As the bolillos are shaped, lay them a couple of inches apart, seam-side down, on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Lightly flour the buns and cover them with a towel.
Bake. While the bolillos are rising, heat your oven to 500°F. Let the buns rest until almost doubled in size, about 30 minutes. Using a bread lame, razor blade, or sharp knife, make a ¼ to ½-inch deep cut down the center of each roll (it’s common to cut holding the razor blade or knife at a 45-degree angle and cut in a slight curve that matches the form of the bolillo). Spray the rolls liberally with water. Top the baking sheet with an inverted light aluminum roasting pan and slide into the lower ⅓ of your oven. Bake for 5 minutes and then carefully remove the roasting pan. (If your oven has a convection setting, turn it on after removing the roasting pan.) Bake until golden brown (or an internal temperature of 200 F), 8 to 12 more minutes. Remove to a wire rack to cool.
Note: Bolillos are best the same day you bake them. You can also wrap rolls tightly in plastic wrap and store them in the freezer for up to 3 months. Defrosted or day-old bolillos can be refreshed by spraying them with water and warming them in a 350-degree oven.
