On practically any trip to Oaxaca, your tastebuds will encounter three flavors: the bright complexity of Oaxacan chorizo, the mellow savoriness of tasajo (thin-cut, half-dried beef) and the sweet-tangy richness of pork cecina enchilada. In Oaxaca City’s famous Smoke Alley (Pasillo de Humo), a couple dozen vendors display those three specialties, waiting for you to tell them how much of each you want, waiting to grill them for you over a searing-hot tub of charcoal. For most visitors I know, making tacos on large Oaxacan tortillas in Smoke Alley ranks as one of the most memorable experiences of their trip.
Guajillo powder, available at Mexican groceries and online, gives a brighter, more classic flavor than ancho. But ancho–much more widely available–is perfectly delicious.
INGREDIENTS
- For the adobo marinade:
- A scant 1/2 cup good-quality guajillo or ancho powdered chile (the amount you’ll get from a typical 2-ounce spice jar)
- 8 garlic cloves, peeled
- 1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
- 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon, preferably Mexican canela
- 1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
- 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
- 3 tablespoons vinegar (apple cider vinegar is common in Mexico)
- 1 1/2 teaspoons salt
- For finishing the dish:
- 1 1/2 pounds boneless pork loin
- 1 large bunch (about 6 pieces) knob onions, root ends cut off, any withered green parts removed
- A little vegetable oil
- Salt
- 2 limes , cut into wedges
- About 3/4 cup salsa–Chipotle Salsa is great here (especially when made with Oaxacan pasilla chiles in place of chipotles), as is Avocado-Tomatillo Salsa
- 16 or more warm corn tortillas
INSTRUCTIONS
Make the adobo marinade. Scoop the ancho powder into a blender or small food processor. Bring 1 ½ cups water to a boil, pour over the chile. In a small microwave-safe bowl, collect the garlic, cover with water and microwave at 100% for 1 minute. Drain and add to the blender or processor, along with the herb and spices, vinegar and salt. Loosely cover the blender or secure the top of the processor and process until smooth, then scrape half of the marinade into a medium bowl. (Refrigerate the remaining marinade to use with fish, chicken, pork or beef on another day.)
Slice and marinate the meat. Thinly slicing the meat will be much easier if you freeze the pork loin for 45 minutes or so to firm it. Slice the pork crosswise into pieces that are a little less than ¼ inch thick. Wearing disposable gloves, rub each piece of pork generously on both sides with the marinade. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours (preferably overnight).
Grill and serve. Light a charcoal fire and let it burn until the coals are covered with gray ash but still very hot. Lightly oil the knob onions. Lay on the hottest part of the grill. Grill until lightly charred on one side, flip them over and lightly char the other side, about 5 minutes total. Move to the coolest part of the grill and let coast to complete tenderness in the center, about 12 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board, chop into small pieces, sprinkle with salt and scoop into a serving bowl. Scoop the limes into another bowl and set out with the salsas and tortillas.
A few slices at a time, grill the pork: Spray or brush the slices with oil and lay them on the hottest part of the grill. When charred in spots, about 1 minute, flip and grill the other side, about a minute more. Transfer to a cutting board, cut into thin strips, sprinkle with salt, scoop into a warm bowl and set out for all to put together their own tacos.
