If you’re expecting this robust torta to simply be a Mexicanized version of the classic Cuban sandwich developed in Florida over a century ago, you’re barking up a different tree. Mexico’s torta cubana was, in fact, developed in Mexico, even though there are some shared ingredients with the Florida version.
Like many classics, torta cubana has multiple creation stories, some saying that it was developed by torta vendors on Cuba Street, a group that had been known since the Frenchified Porfiriato of the late 1800s for selling new-fangled, over-stuffed sandwiches in the land of tacos.Or maybe it was created by Don Polo, a fellow who’d started his eponymous restaurant in the ‘50s, who became famous for tortas with toasted teleras. Or it could even have been Fidel Castro himself, as some contend, during his Mexico City residence in the late ‘50s when he was a regular patron of the Casa del Pavo—another of the places that claims torta cubana’s invention.
Torta cubana, like its Florida counterpart, relies on pork in a big way. Most make it with roast pork leg (I’m suggesting the easier-to-find pork shoulder), followed by ham, chorizo, hot dogs, milanesa, head cheese, bacon and/or any other pork products that might be at hand. My favorite version is paired down from the gargantuan version, relying on ham for succulence, bacon for interest, and roasty pork when I have time to make it. Beyond pork, the crispy telera gets layered with cheese, avocado, pickled jalapeños or chipotles, the torta’s customary smear of beans and maybe some crema. But none of Florida’s mustard and pickled cucumbers, ingredients that rarely make an appearance in the Mexican kitchen.
Here's a starter recipe that I encourage you to make your own. This roast pork is inspired by the great cookbook author Martha Chapa, but If it’s more than you want to tackle, leave it out: The torta is great with just ham and bacon. Though that version may lead you to dream about a torta cubana with a little chorizo (maybe scrambled with egg) spread over the beans or layering in tomato slices.
INGREDIENTS
- For the roast pork (if you choose to use it):
- 8 garlic cloves, peeled
- 1/2 cup soy sauce
- 2 tablespoons honey or agave syrup
- Salt & black pepper
- 2 pounds boneless pork shoulder roast
- For finishing the tortas:
- 8 thick slices bacon
- About 2/3 cup cooked black beans with just enough liquid to cover, canned or home-cooked
- 4 teleras
- 1/2 cup Mexican crema , creme fraiche or sour cream
- 8 to 12 (8 to 10 ounces) Chihuahua or Mexican Manchego cheese (or other melting cheese like Jack, Colby or mild cheddar)
- 8 to 12 nice slices (about 12 ounces) ham–I like a good-quality smoky one
- 1 soft ripe avocado, pit removed, flesh scooped from the skin and cut into 12 slices
INSTRUCTIONS
Make the (optional) roast pork. Heat the oven to 325 degrees. In a blender, combine the garlic, soy, honey, 2 teaspoons salt and 1 teaspoon pepper. Blend until smooth. Place meat in an ovenproof pan with a lid (I use a small Dutch oven), then pour the garlic marinade over the pork, smearing it to coat all sides evenly. Cover the pan and slide into the oven. After an hour, uncover and turn the pork over. Roast, uncovered until the pork is fork tender, about 1 ¼ to 1 ½ hours longer, basting a few times. Cool. In order to make thinnish slices for the tortas, it’s best to refrigerate for several hours–better overnight. (This makes double what you will need for this recipe but it is really hard to roast a smaller piece of pork.)
Bacon and beans. In a very large skillet, lay out the bacon in a single layer. Set over medium heat and fry, flipping periodically, until crisp, about 8 minutes, depending on the thickness of the bacon. Remove to a tray lined with paper towels. Pour off all but about 2 tablespoons of the drippings and return to the heat. In a food processor, puree the beans, then scrape them into the hot fat. Stir for a minute or two as they reduce and thicken. Set aside.
Finishing the Tortas. Turn on the oven to 400 degrees. Slice the roast pork as thinly as possible and let warm to room temperature. Split the teleras as you would a bagel. Lay the bottoms on a rimmed baking sheet and smear them with a generous coating of beans. Top each with a portion or roast pork, followed by 2 slices of bacon. Smear 2 tablespoons crema on the cut side of the tops, then top with cheese and ham. Lay them next to the bottoms, open-faced and slide in the oven. Bake until the teleras are crispy and the cheese has melted, 8 to 10 minutes. Lay in a portion of the avocado and pickled jalapeño or chipotle over the bacon. Flip the tops over onto the bottoms and you’re ready to serve.
